TASTINGS & EVENTS

Tasting Notes ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

If you have been to more than one of our tastings it is likely that you’ve heard us throw out the word “phylloxera” now and again. What does this mean? Is it a pairing suggestion? Does it have to do with “fine lees aging,” wine “legs” or that “vegetal” taste in Cabernet Franc. Well, we are here to clear it up. Phylloxera (pronounced fi-lok-SUH-ruh) is a bug that is native to Eastern North America, including good ol’ Massachusetts. This insect feeds and lays eggs on the leaves and roots of grapevines, which damages them until it ultimately kills the plant. It was first identified in the 1860’s after English botanists transported American vines over to England. With England’s maritime presence, and its proximity to Europe, it didn’t take long for this pest to spread. While native American grapevines had developed defenses to this bug over time, the roots of European grapevines (Vitis vinifera) were devoured like a French baguette, fresh from the oven. Within a few decades, just under half of these defenseless vineyards in France were destroyed, approximately 6.2 million acres. The insect spread to parts of Australia around 1875, and to South Africa around 1886. Toward the end of the nineteenth century, two-thirds of all European vineyards had been destroyed.

While it was American grapevines that started this European endemic, it was American grapevines that were also its salvation. In 1870, C.V. Riley (along with J. E. Planchon), an entomologist studying the problem in Missouri, suggested grafting American rootstock to European rootstock. This resulted in him receiving the French Grand Gold Medal and he was named a Chevalier of the Legion of Honor. While Bordeaux started grafting rootstock in 1881, and with Burgundy doing so in 1887, adoption was slow as there were concerns over how the American rootstock could “sully” French vines. For the most part, however, the grafting of rootstocks does not affect the development of the grapes.

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Phylloxera is not just a 19th Century problem and is still causing problems to this day. It was 40ish years ago that Napa Valley was dealing with the bug on rootstock that was a cross of American and European rootstock (AXR-1), which ultimately proved insufficient. The Champagne region, which lost nearly all of its stock to the bug, still harbors two parcels of Pinot Noir behind high walls, planted by Champagne Bollinger. A third (unwalled) vineyard that had avoided infestation died off at the turn of the century.

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There is currently no cure for phylloxera. While drier climates and areas with soils primarily comprised of sand or schist, have largely been spared from infestation, the grafting of American rootstock is currently the best way to manage the insects’ devastating effects. Ungrafted rootstock is still vulnerable to adaptations phylloxera may develop over time.

What does phylloxera have to do with this Friday’s Rioja wine tasting? While Spain was not spared the destructive nature of phylloxera (Malaga nearly lost its entire wine industry), it fast tracked Rioja’s ability to make cellar worthy European wines as France sought alternatives to make up for their faltering production.

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Specifically, Bordeaux’s winemakers came to Rioja and the city of Haro to make Bordeaux style wines which could be shipped to France. While this demand only lasted for a short period, the foreign expertise and winemaking knowledge that flowed into Rioja to make this happen forever changed its winemaking legacy, which was most profoundly affected through the use of oak aging.

Back in Freburary, we took a trip to Spain that included two (2) days in Rioja.  It wasn’t enough time! During our brief stay we visited a number of iconic producers: Muga, Sierra Cantabria, Cuentavinas, Ramirez de la Piscina and Vino Villota, which we seek to share with you this Friday, May 9th (5-7), including the following:

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Sierra Cantabria, Rioja Blanco 2024 (Preview only. Shipment landing soon)

Vino Villota, Rioja Estate Grown and Bottled 2019

Bodegas Muga Seleccion Especial Rioja 2019

Bodegas Muga, Rioja Rosado 2024

Cuentavinas, Alomado 2020

Ramirez de la Piscina, Rioja Reserva 2018

Vinedos de Paganos, Rioja El Puntido Gran Reserva 2008

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